Antique & Vintage Dress Gallery
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#4722 - c. 1902 REDFERN, Paris
Trained Evening Gown of Black Chantilly Lace and Heavily Trimmed in
Black Paillettes!
The label is missing, but the original
model, in black lace over a white foundation, was photographed for
Les Modes in March of 1902. The workmanship proclaims that
this is not a copy. Evidently the client wanted a more
conservative effect and requested that the gown be made over a black
foundation. The Chantilly lace has a distinctive design which
is outlined with black paillettes, suspended on chains of tiny jet
beads. The massive train settles beautifully as the cotton
lining is shorter than the lace, so you see the delicacy of the lace
at lower back of gown! Extraordinary design! The wide hem band
and the bodice are solid masses of paillettes. This is a very
heavy trimming for such a delicate fabric - the gown weighs 8
pounds!!!.... yet the condition is surprisingly still good, but
please handle with care! The paillettes due tend to fall off
as the threads are old! I suppose the worse issues are there are
tears in the Chantilly lace on the delicate sleeves, and many of the
paillettes have hazed over. This is not particularly
noticeable under indoor lighting (they just look dusty), but I've
been told that the hazing is quite noticeable in natural daylight
and positively alarming under fluorescent light. This
according to the previous owner who displayed the gown in various
museums throughout the USA. So even with the issue, obviously
still a Museum Quality garment! There is a mended area lost in the
folds of the train, not visible unless the dress is turned
inside-out. Measures: 39" bust, 29-31" waist, up
to 43" hips, 83" long from shoulder to hem at back of train. Again,
an extremely heavy gown! Price reflects condition.
SOLD - but on
display in Museum Category for Research/Display
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